In a time where fashion was very important there were many specific rules that dictated how one was to dress while in mourning. What you wore or did not wear was depended on who you were in mourning for. You were expected to wear specific clothes for a specific period of time. These rules were also different depending on whether you were a man or woman or a child. Mourning to the greatest of extent was more rule binding for the wealthy. To have the fashionable mourning attire was expensive and only the wealthy could afford everything that was needed to be in the height of fashion.
The first photo is of a young girl who was considered to be in half mourning. Children didn't wear the full mourning attire of the adult women.
These women were considered to be in full deep mourning. These were everyday dresses. If the woman was closely related to the deceased such as a wife or mother they were expected to be in full mourning for at least a year. During this time, her clothing could only be made of fabrics which lacked color or shine. Only black crape trim was allowed, while feathers, beads, and hat flowers were forbidden. This absence of decoration was meant to show how a mourner was consumed with her deep sorrow instead of her appearance.
This woman is in mourning for her child. The white lace trim on her dress indicated the purity of her child.
This man is also in mourning for his child. However the dark suit he is wearing was not any different than what he might have typically worn to the office.
After a year of full mourning a woman was then allowed to wear half- mourning which could last for up to another year. They were allowed to wear more prints and fabrics with color and jewelry.
These were all typical of the late 1890's.
I couldn't help but share a picture from one of my favorite movies. "Gone with the Wind"
Dancing was not typically acceptable while in mourning but of course Scarlette managed to do whatever she pleased regardless of being in full mourning.